Do you love shopping? Do you also love nature?
If you answered yes, it’s time to rethink your wardrobe. Textile is the third largest waste generated after plastic and compost. Indians spend nearly 68 billion dollars on clothing and footwear annually[1]. We each own an average of 45 clothes. The biggest question is WHY. Why should you be motivated to Rethink Your Wardrobe?
The fashion industry carbon footprint is larger than the aviation and shipping industry combined[2]. Read that again. The textile industry significantly impacts the environment negatively. It consumes resources, costs money and generates pollution at various levels (air, soil, water). The scale of this industry is massive, which impacts people, the planet and profit. How many T-shirts do you own – more than one for sure! Did you know, it requires 2700 liters to produce 1 T-shirt = 15 days of your daily water consumption.
Must Watch animated video on a T-shirt’s impact on the environment. Every garment, every customer, every shopaholic contributes towards impacting the environment. Altering our mindset to think for the environment before our greed. Fashion is costing us our forests, marine ecosystems and clean air.
They WHY factor is explained in detail outlining 3 major threats:
Microplastics: Microplastics are an invisible threat. Clothing micro-fibers washed every cycle contribute to 35%[3] microplastics detrimental to marine ecosystems. 60% of garments made across the world contain polyester. 60% of all garments contain synthetic materials such as polyester, acrylic, and nylon worldwide, of which 60% is polyester. Highly popular as any plastic product for its durability, affordability, resistance and availability. When these fabrics are fabricated, washed and worn, they lose tiny plastic fibers that end up in the environment.
Every time clothing wear is washed, up to 700,000 microscopic fibers flow into our oceans, where they are ingested by marine life, entering into the food chain and drinking water resources thereby potentially ending up into that tandoor fry you had for lunch the other day.
Waste: Garments that end up in landfills take nearly 200 years[4] to decompose, wherein they emit greenhouse methane gases, leach toxic chemicals into the soil and groundwater. Research estimates that annually €4 billion[5] can be saved with better waste management practices. Demand for new trends is ever-increasing – 35% of material in the production process is wasted and 57% of discarded clothes end up in landfills and incinerated polluting the air with contaminants[6].
Water and Wastewater: Subsequently, 7,900 billion liters of water annually supplied for the production of which most is released as polluted wastewater. On average one cotton shirt requires 2,700 liters of water = 15 days of water for daily activities (165 liters/day – drinking, bathing, cleaning, etc.)[7]. However organic cotton requires 91% less water – grown in the right places thereby have a relatively lower footprint[8]. What about denim – probably have a few stuffed in the back, they require nearly 10,850 liters of water.
Environmental Impact Preview – Bangladesh Case Study. Travel to Bangladesh and see for yourself what is the impact of one of the largest textile industries on the environment.
Here are 5 simple strategies you can adopt to rethink your wardrobe with sustainable fashion garments:
If you are convinced, here are few simple steps to help you start on this crusade. Reducing may not be an option for most of you, but do try to diss those urges as far as possible. Embrace the sustainable lifestyle – it is easier to climb up than down. Sustainable fashion – an approach towards sourcing raw material, manufacturing and designing clothes negative impacts on people, planet and profit be minimal.
Fabric Material: When we choose clothes, we essentially check for design (fit, color) and materials. Fabrics include natural, synthetic fiber to blend variations – silk (silkworm), cotton (cotton plants), linen (flax plant), khadi (spun in charkha), wool (sheep), cashmere (type of wool), bamboo, hemp and then there are polyesters (synthetic fiber made from petrochemicals like coal and petroleum), nylons, jersey, leather (cowhide, crocodile, pigs, stingrays), suede (usually lambskin, goats, pigs, calves and deer)[9]. The fabric significantly defines durability, quality and waste generated from your clothing wear. For example, when you purchase a 100% pure linen dress/shirt, which makes for a raffishly sophisticated look, starts wearing off after about 3-5 years. As opposed to the same design of dress/shirt made from polyester – 3-5 washes and it’s time to bid it farewell. Shopping quality clothes and good care can extend the lifespan by many months. Note that polyester’s carbon footprint is times that of cotton[10].
Garment Design: there are various design elements of a garment complimented with accessories – buttons, zips, embroidery, dye, sequence, lace and so on. Styling with a minimalistic approach should be the end goal. Everyone has their unique style. Tailoring clothes to fit your size perfectly and leaving enough margin for future alterations – so you may indulge in those extra Rasgolas.
Brand Selection: As a consumer, you have the power because what you demand, companies will manufacture. Studying where is the material sourced from, how is it produced, are certified, how are the employees treated, how is it transported – few questions to begin with when exploring any brand for shopping. Supporting local artisans and craftsmen. Our heritage is rich in design and ethnicity, adding high value to garments. Stay true to our roots by purchasing from local artisans, local businesses or even opting for second-hand clothes.
A wide range of amazing options available in the new era created to cater for the increasing demand for sustainable clothing wear and textile. After much research, find a list of my favorite, few passionate and sustainable options to help you redefine your wardrobe style at the end of the article. This list is not exhaustive, please share any researched suggestion in the comment section.
Washing Clothes: These simple habits will probably help save a dolphin or two. Wash garments at lower temperatures, use mesh laundry bags and install filters on waste pipes to capture threads. Using natural detergents to wash clothes – many options available in the market including age-old soap-nuts which is affordable and compostable. They can even be made at home using simple techniques and easily available ingredients. Watch video to DIY detergent and fabric softener using soap-nuts and mint leaves (Pudina).
Upcycle, Recycle and Donate: Our ancestors often recycled sarees and dupattas into bags, blankets, cushion covers, curtains and many more, quite easily. Basic sewing skills were as important as knowing how to cook. Even resizing school uniforms, daily wear for younger cousins or friends. This should be the last option for us – as the marketplace is already loaded with unwanted clothes and recycling technology are far from being commercially viable[11].
Multiple brands and organizations partner together to collect unwanted clothes and textiles. One such example is Marks & Spencer and Goonj. Goonj, a noteworthy NGO is working relentlessly for 10 years now in the field of sustainable resource management and promotion of circular economy[12], founded by Anshu Gupta, popularly known as the Clothing Man.
“Under his leadership, Goonj created a barter between urban surplus and village communities labor, triggering large scale rural development work.” Goonj NGO
Travel to a small town in Italy called Prato, which recycles nearly 25 tons of textile waste into new clothing for nearly 100 years now.
Back in the day, the population was less, needs were minimal and resources abundant. Waste generated was mostly biodegradable thereby naturally recycled. With the advent of the industrial revolution and globalization – waste is often non-compostable and highly hazardous. The textile industry and government are taking various initiatives, however, your actions have a significant contribution towards harnessing change for people, the planet and profit. Social influencers have disrupted the way we shop, Fashion Retail Academy reports 50% of shoppers to blame them for the rise in the Fast Fashion trend. Just follow the sustainable, local, natural influencers. Simple acts will lead to great impacts.
15 Sustainable Fashion Brands
Mix Mitti Range: Bags Primary Material: Recycled fabric City: Mumbai Brand Philosophy: “MixMitti aims at bringing you exclusive range of high end lifestyle accessory products hand crafted as an initiative of skill development and creating awareness towards life and global issues with the help of photography.”
Range: Clothes, Footwear, Bags, Home
Primary Material: Cotton, Linen, Hemp, Recycled fabric
City: India, Singapore
Brand Philosophy: “When we become conscious, we create a change. This is what our collections will aim at. Each piece will promise a green heart up your sleeve, clothing, will be crafted keeping our earth in mind, and keeping you in mind.”
Range: Clothes, Footwear, Bags, Home
Primary Material: Cotton, Linen
City: Ahmedabad
Brand Philosophy: “Okhai product not only helps its artisans become wage earners, but also spreads awareness about the traditional crafts of the region, thus helping preserve a rich part of India’s national cultural heritage.”
Range: Clothes, Footwear, Bags, Home
Primary Material: Upcycle factory waste
City: Online
Brand Philosophy: “At Doodlage we aim to create season-less merchandise. Keeping comfort and versatility at the center of our designs.”
Range: Clothes, Footwear, Bags, Home
Primary Material: Khadi, bamboo, cotton
City: New Delhi
Brand Philosophy: “Renowned for its use of indigenous cotton and 100% natural dyes, the label uses heritage techniques such as hand spinning, hand loom weaving, hand painting, miniature tie-dyeing, and quilting.”
Range: Clothes, Bags, Home
Primary Material: Textile waste
City: Pune
Brand Philosophy: “Our need to be a label that adapted its waste in a functional system led us to Heart To Haat, our sisterhood, inspired by the indigenous ideology of reusing, repurposing and reclaiming.”
Range: Clothes, Footwear, Bags, Home
Primary Material: Cotton, others
City: Auroville
Brand Philosophy: “We silently celebrate the fading of natural dyes as we gracefully watch ourselves change through time. We design for mortality while honoring life, nature and inner growth.”
Range: Clothes, Bags
Primary Material: Cotton
City: Goa
Brand Philosophy: “We care for our planet and everyone on it. That's why we are organic, fair trade, vegan and carbon-neutral too.”
Range: Clothes, Bags
Primary Material: Cotton, silk
City: New Delhi
Brand Philosophy: “To provide fairly-paid, dignified and sustainable livelihood opportunities to marginalized women, with the objective of empowering them to achieve economic independence and create better lives for themselves, their families and their communities.”
Range: Clothes, Footwear, Bags, Home
Primary Material: Cotton, Linen
City: Tamil Nadu
Brand Philosophy: “Ethicus, works towards creating a product of the highest quality using the finest of Ecologic cotton yarns and the best of Artisans to create world class textiles for today.”
Range: Footwear, Bags, Home
Primary Material: Pineapple, Cactus
City: Pune
Brand Philosophy: “We partner with folk artists, karigars and cooperative societies from different parts of the country to develop our products, with natural fabrics, vegetable dyes and animal-friendly materials.”
Range: Footwear, Bags, Home
Primary Material: Coconut Malai
City: Kerala
Brand Philosophy: “We are inspired by the beauty and purity of natural materials, and by the life-cycle and ecology of the coconut palm in particular. We work in close partnership with the local coconut farmers and processing units in our region of South India.”
Range: Clothes, Footwear, Bags, Home
Primary Material: Bamboo
City: Online
Brand Philosophy: “With each Bamboo Tribe Original that you add to your wardrobe, you’re making a statement that quality matters, wastefulness is passé and you won’t buy just anything that big corporations say you need to have.”
Range: Bags
Primary Material: Pineapple
City: New Delhi
Brand Philosophy: “Our bags are fashionable & responsible enough as they don’t come at an expense of harming animals. Our cruelty-free editions are sure to drop a dart in your heart.”
NOTE: clothes = range of sarees, dress, shirt, kurta, etc. Footwear = sandals, chappals, shoes, etc. Bags = clutch, purse, handbag, etc. Home = curtains, bed sheets, mats, etc.
Source: Goonj website, PlanAIndia Twitter (5th Dec 20), New Agencies, Google, Canva
[1] Bairagi, J Textile Sci Eng 2017, 8:1DOI:10.4172/2165-8064.1000331
[2] Engineering Out Fashion Waste
[3] Institution of Mechanical Engineers
[4] THE ENVIRONMENTAL CRISIS CAUSED BY TEXTILE WASTE by Rachel Brown | Jan 8, 2021, | Environment, Textiles
[5] Global Fashion Agenda and The Boston Consulting Group (2017) Pulse of the Fashion Industry. Report to the Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2017. Hereafter, the ‘Pulse Report 2017’.
[6] CO DATA Fashion and Waste: An Uneasy Relationship
[7] Institute of Water report
[9] Masterclass Diane Von Furstenberg https://www.masterclass.com/articles/28-types-of-fabrics-and-their-uses#28-different-types-of-fabric
[10] Greenpeace Germany research, Timeout for fast fashion
[11] Each year, the EU alone generates 1.5 to 2 million tons of used clothing, much of it unsalable due to poor quality. Exports to the global south have risen dramatically since the year 2000, with 4.3 million tons shipped in 2014. Forty-two countries in Asia, Africa and South America have already restricted or banned second-hand clothing imports to protect local markets.
[12] The circular economy is a model of production and consumption, which involves sharing, leasing, reusing, repairing, refurbishing and recycling existing materials and products as long as possible. In this way, the life cycle of products is extended.
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